COSMIC + MUNDANE

4th edition

PHOTOS: RID BURMAN

CREATIVE DIRECTION : LAURA BURMAN

WORDS: POOJA LUCIE WILLMANN

Whilst astrology was the starting point, as with most conversations, we were pleasantly swayed towards a broader conversation on faith. Guided by the richness of the visual landscape of the Quartier Indien and the candid conversations of the individuals that work and inhabit the spaces. Open minded about what astrology could represent in its broadest definition, what resulted was a multi-layered exploration of anchors of belonging, symbols of home. 

With sectarianism and religious tensions rife in India, it was touching to experience and hear most individuals express that despite belonging to a certain religion, they mostly believed in one god. It was a hairdresser from Haryana that expressed this most candidly. « We don’t believe in astrology, it leads people astray. Religions are just labels - what matters is being a good person ». The first tailor I went to didn’t know what the word astrology meant - being christian Sri Lankans with little exposure to either eastern or western notions of planetary cause and effect. For him though, faith was an evidence - “ one must believe in something, otherwise, there's no point ”. For some, faith was not a topic of much discussion, but the ornamentation of their shops inevitably included a Ganesha, as well as two to three other gods side by side - creating a common thread between them. Grappling for words at Vijay Jewelers, I noticed the large gems on the rings of his fingers. He immediately took out a gemmology business card, indicating stones in accordance with birth months. This was a universal language we understood - simply capturing his hands was the furthest we got to his faith. 

The juxtaposition of religious iconography in most shops is noteworthy. Such multiplicity is rare, making the quartier Indian a rare haven for community and tolerance. One of the first shots Rid took was inside a gift shop, each inch full with cards, mini statues, garlands, and other memorabilia. Here, Ramanan held a golden snow globe whilst his quiet faith spoke for itself -  in a shop full of gods, he shyly shook his head when I asked if he went to the temple, instead saying that he simply prayed at home. At Jasmine Flowers, we were warmly welcomed, laying out fresh flowers one by one on vibrant banana leaves which had arrived that very morning from the South. This shop opened 25 years ago - Zita, the owner’s daughter, proudly cites it as the first asian ran flower shop in France. Whilst the day to day is simple - selling pre-packaged jasmine and other ceremonial flower packets for temple offerings, the owner excitedly explains his involvement in shipping kilos of Tuberose for the 2013 Chanel Métiers D’art show aptly named Paris Bombay Express.  “ Their budgets are astronomical ” he says, contextualising the sheer scale of the delicate plants he handles day to day. 

Offering in hand, we made our way to the Temple of Ganesh - the nature and chronology of the shoot itself a build up towards the final act of prayer. We removed our shoes and took part in the pooja, before meeting Ganesh Pundit, the in-house astrologer. Here, faith was visibly devotional but still retained its earthly qualities. Children shyly poked at their food, families queuing up at all hours of the day to receive blessings. Whilst getting an astrological reading was a paid service, to be prepared in advance, Ganesh Pundit explained that he only gave readings 2/3 times a week. Now, people had started getting advice from ‘scammers’ around the main train stations. Far from home and beneath Parisian skies, faith adapts itself from the smallest gestures to the most traditional ceremonies…